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Apart from Air Macau (en.mo) and mainland Chinese carriers from major cities across the country, a growing number of low-cost airlines, including Air Asia ( Tiger Air ( Viet Jet Air (from Danang, and Cebu Pacific ( fly in and out of Macau linking up places like Bangkok, Singapore, Manila, Japan and South Korea.

Erstwhile local budget airline Viva Macau, alas, did not survive the initial stampede and folded its wings after a short stint in the low cost skies.

Crowds dodged firecrackers at the A-Ma Temple before heading off to feast on Macanese salted cod balls in cosy European-style taverns.

It was merry mayhem, unpredictable, absurd, absorbing, languorous, and fun.

An average one-way midweek fare is around HK0 rising to HK0 for weekend evening services.

The new Taipa Island ferry terminal arrives late 2016 and come 2018 (somewhat delayed from 2016), Macau will be joined by bridge to Hong Kong and the Chinese border city of Zhuhai.

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You can also enter Macau from China, through the Cotai frontier post or the “Barrier Gate” on the northern border of Macau. Fly in by helicopter (a 15-minute flight from Hong Kong; one-way ticket from HK,700, tel: [852] 2108-9898; like the big boys do. You can also catch flights to a range of destinations from Macau International Airport.

Macau (also Macao), which returned to China in 1999 after more than four centuries of Portuguese rule, is located on the western bank of the Pearl River Delta in southern China.

The 29.5sq km enclave includes the Macau Peninsula, the islands of Taipa and Coloane and the 5.8sq km area of reclaimed land known as Cotai, now linking Taipa and Coloane.

SEE ALSO Hongkong fun guide | Hong Kong shopping | Hong Kong business hotels | Beijing guide | Shanghai guide | Taipei spas | Asian casino hotels JUMP TO Getting to Macau | Vanishing heritage | Casino hotels review | Taipa, Cotai Strip casinos, Coloane resorts | Dining guide and Portuguese flavours | Macau nightlife and bars | Museums | Shopping | Historial Macau Walks | Hotel Contacts Glittering casino neon begins to loom over old Macau where life proceeds at a slower pace, winding through historic walks, churches, cobbled streets and past aromatic egg tart shops. ONCE upon a time, travellers flocked to Macau to nibble egg tarts on the crumbling steps of St Paul’s ruins and marvel at the entwined Chinese and Portuguese culture in the city’s historic quarter.

Latter day adventurers drove sputtering open-top 'Mokes' carting wailing kids from Macau to Taipa and Coloane across thin chicken-neck causeways that flooded in the monsoons.